EFWA 2024 Interview with Eco Designer Saskia Baur-Schmid of HYPH-N (Australia)

Please share a bit about your journey to embrace fashion design as a career. 

I was always a creative child and it was something I continued whilst I was growing up. 

How did you learn your skills?

After high school I went on to study fashion at Whitehouse Institute of Design Itwas there that I learnt most of my skills. It wasn’t until after reflecting on my degree that I went on to refine my skills independently and peruse a more sustainable avenue. Most of these skills predominately came from my personal curiosity and desire to learn more.

Who are you as a designer - aesthetic, customer, brand?

I consider myself to be a conscious creative. I am committed to driving change in an industry that desperately needs re-defining. My practice advocates a rethinking of the established systems within fashion and designing solutions that challenge harmful over-consumption. I am passionate about de-centralising traditional fashion making and thinking, in the aim to work towards a better fashion future. I aim to challenge the traditional notion of sustainable fashion by synthesising environmentally friendly practices with edgy, timeless and sophisticated designs.

My brand focuses on zero waste pattern cutting, modern silhouettes and challenging the aesthetics of sustainable fashion by encouraging less consumption, more wear, and provoking more educated decisions based on fabrication and quality, and how our choices impact the world we live in. My designs are fit for a future we want to live in; where design philosophy is cemented in designs that inspire a slowing down of fashion’s cycles, producing in limited quantity, and designing with longevity and trans-seasonality in mind.

Why did you choose to focus on sustainable fashion? What  additional challenges does that create?

To be honest, I left fashion school burnt out, and was largely disheartened by lack of creativity and mass produced nature of the industry. Sustainability wasn’t on anyone’s radar, and it certainly wasn’t part of the curriculum. So I guess you could say that my journey into sustainable fashion was born out of a desire to create a greater sense of urgency and disrupt the status quo. I wanted to challenge industry norms and pave the way for a more sustainable and conscientious approach to fashion. 

Having taken a step back from the fashion industry after completing my studies, I felt a compelling need to re-enter the field in a radically different way. The environmental crises, wastage, and human rights issues inherent in traditional fashion practices left me disillusioned. I could not align with the industry's relentless push for constant newness and overproduction. This led to the vision of creating a label with strong values that is not only sustainable but also showcases the true craftsmanship of our industry.

The discovery of zero waste design thinking and circular fashion opened a new world for me that was seamlessly aligned with my slow fashion/circular philosophy. It raised a crucial question for me: "How can you design in a zero-waste way without compromising on fit and style?" For me this marked a significant departure from traditional industry methods for clothing production and finally felt like I had found my design identity. 

There are so many challenges by taking such a big step away from how the industry works. It’s costly, isolating and often feels like you’re making no progress at all. Our approach may not be the most economical, and it is by no means easy doing things so differently. But I firmly believe it is the most responsible and effective solution for fashion moving forward. It’s about balancing the financial considerations, environmental priorities, and the well-being of all those involved in the process. I really believe that this commitment to zero waste pattern cutting is at the core of redefining sustainable aesthetics without compromising the planet.

I am a firm believer that change will happen from independent designers who have the ability to adapt and change, rather than expecting the big players to make these changes. I don’t have all the answers and may not be doing it perfectly but we need designers to strive for sustainability imperfectly to make the most significant change.

What comes easiest for you as a designer? What is hardest?

Creativity and attention to detail have always been my comfort zone as a designer—it's where I thrive. Designing, sampling and sourcing have always been easy for me. There is never a shortage of ideas. But the real challenge for me has been reimagining pattern making after my formal training, and adopting to a zero-waste mindset.  It's tough. You have to throw all the rules you were taught out the door, but the reward is worth every hurdle. 

I have also found that finding the sweet spot between producing in limited quantities and staying financially viable can be quite challenging. Its a constant battle to give consumers something new without leaning too far into the fast fashion overproduction mindset. It's a constant juggle, but it keeps things exciting!

Where do you find inspiration for new collections? How important is colour to your design process?

My design process is a bit different to most. Personally, I believe our responsibility starts right from the collection's design phase and is inherently linked to what inspires us. I draw most of my inspiration from rescuing, re-using and reimagining dead-stock materials that would otherwise be destined for landfill. The fabrics act as inspiration as they create limitations and restraints when using the fabrics resources to the fullest. A lot of the design details are restricted by using these materials to their fullest potential. I do also find inspiration from art movements, architecture, questioning cultural norms.

Colour is a very significant in each of our collections. Our colour pallets are always neutral and monochromatic to ensure that pieces remain relevant and timeless season after season. Our colour pallet is also limited to the dead-stock materials that I am able to source.

Readers would love to hear a little about the collection you will show on the runway at EFWA 2024.

Forward is the concept we explored for our newest collection. We have explored the stages of creating, dismantling, and transforming into the next iteration/form, and how moving forward can propel you into a new chapter. The collection explores the tension between paving a new trajectory and the reality we live in; where we are forced into hierarchical distinctions and the ongoing issue of human homogenization. If we all stay looking and referencing the same things, creativity is stifled. But if we look for joy, originality and innovation the possibilities are endless. The collection explores a contrasting of elements; where structure is juxtaposed with fluidity and each garment features unexpected details.

Where can readers purchase your designs?

All our pieces are handcrafted locally in Australia in limited quantities that respond to your demand in a conscious effort to minimize waste and are exclusively stocked via our online store. Our latest collection can be shopped online via www.hyph-n.com.au.

In closing, is there anything else you'd like to share with readers?

With my label I am hoping to encourage less consumption, more wear and educated decisions based on fabrication and quality, and how our choices impact the world we live in. The goal isn't just to create clothing; it's about instigating change. It's about more than making clothes; it's about influencing how people perceive and interact with fashion.

I am aiming to lead by example, showcasing the potential of sustainable practices within the industry. Achieving zero waste is key. I want consumers to understand the significance of their choices and the broader impact on the planet. Fashion has, unfortunately, become detached from the craftsmanship behind it.

I hope that I can begin bridging that gap by staying transparent and making responsible choices. Ultimately I’m not chasing overnight fame; it's a strategic journey. By encouraging conscious choices and promoting sustainable practices, I hope to leave a lasting impact on the industry.

I strongly believe that this shift lies in the hands of the next generation of designers. It's about paying it forward and empowering the upcoming talents to make conscious choices and contribute to a more sustainable future, where fashion isn’t just a trend but a conscious movement shaping the industry's future.

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