EFWA 2024 Interview with Eco Designer José Hendo (London)

Please share a bit about your journey to embrace fashion design as a career.

I am originally an artist, but decided to study fashion rather than push forward with art. As a child I learnt how to sew from my mother, I loved to make clothes for my collection of dolls. Then in secondary school I studied needlework. We made simple patterns and clothes. I did not have the patience needed in needlework.

I loved art because the results were quicker and it came easily to me. So I focused on art for my final secondary school exams. Unfortunately my art portfolio was lost by the exam board so I could not proceed with art at University. I chose to do fashion design instead.

How did you learn your skills?

After my first graduation in fashion, I worked for a bridal bespoke shop, then at a women's wear factory on the design team. After I started a family, I worked freelance while launching my own bespoke bridal wear service. This is how I perfected my skills.

After years of working in fashion, I was disillusioned by what I saw in the industry (e.g., fast fashion and sweat shops). In order to find my way forward, I decided to do further studies (Beyond Being A Fashion Designer) at the University of the Arts London, London College of Fashion. I think being a mother had a big influence on my decision because I wanted to leave a better world for future generations. Little did I know what was to come. I learnt a lot at university, but I was also inspired and motivated to do self study. My willingness to work extremely hard has stood me well.

Who are you as a designer - aesthetic, customer, brand?

I am an Eco-Sustainable/Circular designer and artist inspired by the world around me. "Designing now requires an understanding of our impact on people and the planet." I use my artistic background to visualize and help create sculptural designs. Timelessness is really important in my garments.

My customer is an Eco-conscious woman or man. My aim is to produce responsibly, and to consume responsibly. It is a lifestyle choice I have followed for many years. Our brand is 'José Hendo', and our studio is based in London.

Why did you choose to focus on sustainable fashion? What additional challenges does that create?

Designing clothes now requires an awareness of the impact of the fashion industry on the environment.  In my desire to get away from fast fashion, ‘sustainable by design’ became my mantra – from material choices, to clever cutting, to simplified production processes. “The clothes we wear are a direct expression of our personalities, beliefs and lifestyles. Therefore the choices we make have a far reaching effect. That is why I say the history of a garment is just as important as its future.”

I choose to work extensively with Ugandan barkcloth. Being Ugandan-born, this ancient cloth is part of my heritage. The making of barkcloth is a centuries-old technique. It is considered the oldest cloth made by man, and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Material in 2005.  The tree regenerates another layer of bark to be harvested every year for up to sixty years. This organic cloth that predates the weaving era is the best ambassador for sustainability.

One challenge is it is sometimes difficult to access the right Eco materials at reasonable prices to be able to keep prices competitive.

What comes easiest for you as a designer? What is hardest?

The qualities of each individual piece of barkcloth presents challenges, but also inspire me to new heights in design .Most things I do are not easy, but I just put my mind to it and try to meet the challenges.

Where do you find inspiration for new collections? How important is colour to your design process?

My inspiration can come from anywhere, starting with observation and listening to the world around me. For example: nature, sculpture, architecture and the urban environment. Colour is important in my design process. This comes through during the research process in my design development, which then feeds into the concept, helping set the mood for the design.

Readers would love to hear a little about the collection you will show on the runway at EFWA 2024.

The new design series will have our usual R3 (Reduce Reuse Recycle) mantra that underpins everything we do. Ugandan barkcloth will of course feature prominently.

Where can readers purchase your designs?

They can purchase from our website e-store at www.josehendo.com, or by coming to our Eco-studio in London.

In closing, is there anything else you'd like to share with readers?

"Remember the choices you make have a far reaching effect, so choose carefully to help reduce our impact on the people and the planet. Together we can make a big difference." -  José Hendo

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